Collar and cuff ribbing recovery

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Whether the collar and cuff ribbing returns to its width after stretching, and whether the joins are closed.

The reading sequence

3 steps, starting at surface and finish and running to compare both cuffs and the collar in one frame. Evidence on this point is read at E1, and 3 of the 3 steps carries a condition that ends the assessment outright.

Step 1

Measure the rib relaxed, stretched and released

Find out whether the rib knit returns to its starting width, using three readings rather than one look at the collar.

Evidence: E1 — a video of the seller measuring one cuff relaxed against a ruler, stretching it to about 150 percent for five seconds, releasing it and holding the tape in frame for a further 60 seconds

Pass
  • Both cuffs measure within 2 mm of each other when relaxed.
  • Each rib returns within 3 mm of its starting width inside 30 seconds of release.
Query
  • A rib sits 4 to 6 mm wider than it started a minute after release.
  • One cuff measures 3 to 5 mm wider than the other when both are relaxed.
Return
  • A rib stays 7 mm or more wider than it started a minute after release.
  • A shine line or a permanent wave runs along the rib where the elastane has gone.
Stop here if: A rib stays 7 mm or more wider than it started a minute after release. Stretched knit does not recover with wear, and a collar that stands away from the neck cannot be taken in without unpicking it. What to do next.
Step 2

Photograph the joins where the rib meets the body

Check the two seams that carry the most load on a shirt, where the collar meets the shoulders and the cuff meets the sleeve.

Evidence: E1 — one macro photo of each collar-to-shoulder join and one of each cuff-to-sleeve join, taken square to the seam with the rib edge in frame

Pass
  • Every join is closed, with no gap between the rib and the body cloth.
  • The stitch line runs 2 to 3 mm from the rib edge at an even distance along the join.
Query
  • A gap under 2 mm shows at one shoulder join and closes when the seam is pulled.
  • A thread end under 5 mm hangs at a cuff join.
Return
  • A gap of 3 mm or more shows anywhere along a join.
  • The rib is attached with a raw edge visible on the outside of the shirt.
Stop here if: The collar join opens by 3 mm or more when the shirt is held up by the shoulders. A collar that will not close in the hand will not close on a neck, and the seam cannot be added later without taking the rib off. What to do next.
Step 3

Compare both cuffs and the collar in one frame

Decide whether the three ribs were cut from the same knit, by reading width and pattern side by side.

Evidence: E1 — one photo of the shirt folded so that both cuffs and the collar sit on one line, with a tape measure laid alongside them

Pass
  • All three ribs measure within 2 mm of each other in relaxed width.
  • The knit pattern is the same on the collar and on both cuffs.
Query
  • The three ribs differ by 3 to 4 mm in width while the knit pattern matches.
  • The collar band is 1 to 2 mm deeper than the cuffs.
Return
  • One rib is 5 mm or wider than the other two.
  • One rib uses a different knit pattern from the other two.
Stop here if: One rib uses a different knit pattern from the other two. That is a shirt put together from two production runs, and the difference shows at the collar every time it is worn. What to do next.

Why the thresholds sit where they do

Rib knit is the part of a shirt that fails first and the part that sellers photograph last, because a new collar looks correct whether or not the elastane will hold. The three readings in step 1 separate a knit that is merely tight from one that has lost its return, and the 7 mm figure is the point at which a collar visibly stands away from the neck rather than gripping it. Join condition is checked separately because a closed seam and a springy rib are independent: a shirt can have one without the other, and the two failures have different remedies. Comparing all three ribs in one frame catches the mixed-run shirt that no single measurement reveals.

Common misreads

3 pairs recorded for this point. Each runs in both directions: 2 findings that looks worse than it is, and 1 that looks better.

Check this point against what you were sent

Insufficient evidence

Nothing decided on collar and cuff ribbing yet: 0 of 3 steps have been read.

0 of 3 steps judged

One row per step. Evidence levels: E1 seller photos before dispatch, E2 your photos after arrival, E3 platform public information, E4 third-party reference only. This covers one judging point; the sequence as a whole is scored on the photo scorecard.
StepReadingEvidenceStop met
1. Measure the rib relaxed, stretched and releasedneeds E1A rib stays 7 mm or more wider than it started a minute after release. Stretched knit does not recover with wear, and a collar that stands away from the neck cannot be taken in without unpicking it.
2. Photograph the joins where the rib meets the bodyneeds E1The collar join opens by 3 mm or more when the shirt is held up by the shoulders. A collar that will not close in the hand will not close on a neck, and the seam cannot be added later without taking the rib off.
3. Compare both cuffs and the collar in one frameneeds E1One rib uses a different knit pattern from the other two. That is a shirt put together from two production runs, and the difference shows at the collar every time it is worn.
Score the whole category

Sources and checks

Last checked · next review due · status current.

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